Microdermabrasion is an excellent option for clients looking to reveal smoother, younger-looking skin. It can also provide
a lucrative boost to your business because it carries a higher price tag than more traditional spa services. If you're considering
adding microdermabrasion to your menu of services, it's helpful to know what features you'll want and how you'll use them.
There are too many microdermabrasion machines on the market today to list them all. Basically, they all perform the same function
of removing the stratum corneum, which stimulates the production of collagen, reduces pore size, and reduces the appearance
of fine lines, wrinkles, and facial scars.
Consider the services you currently offer, and determine if microdermabrasion will be offered as a stand-alone procedure,
or will it complement other services. If you offer IPL treatments for acne, hyperpigmentation, and photofacials, performing
microdermabrasion prior to IPL would allow the light to penetrate deeper into the skin. Conversely, it can also be used to
exfoliate the pigment, which has been drawn to the surface of the skin one week post-photofacial treatment. Acneic clients
can benefit from a chemical peel/microdermabrasion protocol, which alternates these treatments to reduce scar tissue and pore
size. When conducted in conjunction with topical medications and possible prophylactic antibiotics, acne flare-ups can be
halted while the tone and texture of the skin are being refined. Microdermabrasion can also be coupled with a mini-facial,
paraffin treatment, or scalp, neck, and shoulder massage as a deluxe spa service.
When choosing microdermabrasion equipment, be aware that there are different machines on the market. Machines can utilize
some form of crystal or abrasive particle, diamond encrusted stainless steel tips, or abrasive paddles. Some machines incorporate
all technologies into one unit. The device forcefully propels the crystals onto the surface of the skin, which are then suctioned
off with oil and dead skin cells. Crystal-based machines can be operated without fear of causing skin damage unless the operator
passes over the same area multiple times. Additionally, the operator can control the speed of crystal expulsion as well as
the suction of debris. Some cons include:
- Some crystals can reflect light and are contraindicated prior to IPL or laser treatments.
- The machine can become clogged by debris, which can reduce the suction strength.
- Clean-up of the work area, floors, and equipment can be messy.
- Residue can be left behind on the patient's skin and hair.
- Refilling and disposing of the crystals can be quite costly.
- Cross-contaminating the device with multiple patients' skin cells is a possibility.
- Crystal inhalation, ingestion, or eye irritation is possible.
- Decibel level of the machine can interfere with spa-like ambience.
Crystal-free systems either use a sandpaper-like surface or diamond-tipped head that mechanically abrades the skin. Some utilize
suction, while others do not. Diamond-tipped devices offer an array of tip sizes ranging from the size of a pencil eraser
(good for the creases of the nose and chin) to the size of a half dollar (good for the décolleté area and backs of the arms
or hands). The tip is encrusted with diamond chips abrading the skin in grades from mild to medium. There is usually a suction
hole or space to vacuum debris to a separate container. Depending on the manufacturer, a filter inside the suction tube catches
the debris. Some have a "community" chamber collecting debris from multiple patients, while others have a separate disk-like
filter for replacement between patients. This type of filter is a useful tool to show the patient what was removed from their
skin. Benefits of the diamond-tipped devices include the ability to treat the eye and lip area, no mess, and the fact that
exfoliation depth and suction strength can be controlled. Treatment tips can be autoclaved or cleansed with a wire brush,
then submersed in a germicidal agent for sanitizing. But users need to be well trained because, if not done properly, damage
to the skin can occur. Vibradermabrasion uses patient-specific paddles to exfoliate skin. During the procedure, the paddle vibrates as it is moved
over the skin performing the exfoliation action. This system is not as irritating to the skin as crystallized treatments.
Some alternate points to consider are:
- There is no suction. Debris remains on the surface of the skin and must be wiped off. Without suction, blood circulation to
the skin's surface cannot be controlled.
- Paddle sizes prohibit treatment of the eye and lip area.
- Grooves on the paddles make it possible for bacteria to remain if not properly cleansed.
- The handles of the paddles can break if too much pressure is applied.
- Patients' personal paddles need to be stored.
Clients should receive a consultation and skin analysis prior to receiving microdermabrasion. Contraindications include sensitive
skin, rosacea, and dermatitis. A series of treatments can be scheduled as close as two weeks apart, which allows enough time
for the client's skin to properly heal. A typical treatment leaves the patient's skin slightly pink without any down-time,
which makes it an excellent lunchtime service.
Paula D. Young, R.N., is a member of the Dermatology Nurses Association, the Association of Medical Esthetic Nurses, and the
Medical Spa Society. She works with her husband, Thomas E. Young, M.D., at Young Medical Spa in Center Valley, PA. For more
information, visit http://www.youngmedicalspa.com/.
